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Scrub scraper plane

I have just finished 14 paddles for a local canoe adventure company. Over the years I have made many paddles for them to their own design. I would usually use arbotechs and angle grinders to shape them. I disliking this type of electric grinding and sanding work more and more these days. So after gluing up and cutting the waste off with a bandsaw out came the scrub plane. I then go straight to the scrub scraper plane as I call it, I forget the jack and smoothing planes altogether.

One of the tools that delights me for its simplicity is the scraper plane. I love my Stanley No 80 and it works so well, and is simple to set up. I am also pleasantly surprised in just how long it stays sharp. I sharpen plane blades far more often.
The scraper plane can deal with any type of wood, knots and wild grain that other planes just cannot cope with. The reason I call it a scrub scraper plane is because just like a scrub plane I crown the edge. So looking at the blade flat on it is higher in the middle than the edges, in other words it has a curve in it.

                                

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Students chairs and workshops

I run and afternoon and evening workshops on wednesdays. Trevor and Martin have just completed their chairs, Trevor comes along in the afternoon and Martin in the evening.

Both of them are really chuffed, as am I. All the work was done on the pole lathe and with hand tools.

If anyone local to me wants to take part in ongoing workshops I have a space on Wednesday afternoons – drop me a line.

The other workshops I am running this year will be Fan bird making on 11th Oct

Tool making on 25 – 26th of Oct. Make a knife and hook tool and maybe whatever edge tool you need.

See my website for details.

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Rip saw, Japanese style

The Bodgers Ball was a bit challenging for me this year. The wind. The wind would not stop, and I had to lower my stall so that it would not blow away. So I do not have much to report, but I did manage to take a few minutes of video of Roy sawing with a Japanese  rip saw. This is the only Japanese tool that I have lusted over. I made a decision years ago to mainly use only western style tools. It partly comes down to money, but also because of the tradition I work in. I have access to lots of second hand western tools and no oriental ones.
I want to make one of these saws because it is used by one person, and it is a cool looking saw. I do have an old crosscut saw lined up to repurposed. Watch this space, but it could take a long time. Lots of other money earning stuff to do in the mean time.

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The Art of Broken Pieces

This film came up in my blog feed and I had to share it. It is about the traditional Japanese art of repairing broken objects.
 If you want to know more about Japanese and Korean craft then The Unknown Craftsman, an insight into Japanese beauty, is a fascinating and worthwhile read. It is always good to have our ideas and beliefs challenged.

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What is it, the answer.

A jointer for saws, both workshop and two person cross cut saws. This is a jointer that will joint straight panel and tenon saws as well as saws with a crown or curved edge. I have been doing a fair bit of saw sharpening recently and thought I could make a simple jig to fulfil both types of jointed edge.

Having a jig to bend the file so that a curved edge can be jointed make life so much easier. I would not be without one especially when renovating crowned cross cuts.

The bottom screw as it tightens bends the file to the desired curve.

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Time to skin a tree

The sap is rising and the trees are coming into leaf. So if you have a tree or stick in the woods that the bark needs to come off it is time to begin thinking about it. The texture and shapes of skinned wood is wonderful and I often make shrink pots at this time of year so that I can, just, slip the bark off.

I have been told stories of bark peelers skinning big oak trees, climbing right up into the crown. The tree would be left standing until the winter months to be felled for timber. What a sight that must have been.
You can also ring cut a willow stick and pull the bark off as a tube to make whistles.
Go on, bring your inner wood butcher out, and skin a tree.

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Axe handles, size is important.

Many years ago I had a 2.1/2lb axe which I made a handle for. My reasoning was that a bigger thicker handle was necessary for a better grip and comfortable working. A few years later I had a few times when I could not even pick up a pencil, let alone grip anything. The pain in my hand and wrist was terrible, especially at 3am in the morning.
An 8th generation hurdle maker at The Royal Show told me why. My handle was too big and the axe was also too heavy for what I was using it for.
Since making handles of the right size I have never had the same issues with my hand. I think that a lot of axe handles made today are too large and the wrong profile. Big beefy men may be able to use them but the rest of us will struggle and can damage ourselves through gripping the wrong size handle or loosing control because it is too big. What about woman and children and men who have small hands.

I measured some older axes with original handles, and then some of the modern made ones from respected makers. Personally I have no issues with reshaping handles and in some cases it is unfortunately necessary to make and axe fit for purpose.

Top axe 4 lb Elwell 36mm x 22mm and flairs width wise out to 27mm at the end
2.5 lb Elwell 20mm up to 23mm x 34mm
Small Whitehouse 20mm x 30mm
The bottom axe is a handle I made and conforms to the above measurements.

Top 2 axes are the GB wildlife hatchet.
Original handle as shipped 21- 23mm to 33 – 40mm
My modified handle
GB Carving axe 27mm x 38mm
Husqvarna 26 – 36 x 46 – 56mm
Not pictured here but I took measurements of a students Hans Karlsson sloyd axe 25mm x 35 – 40 
The GB carving axe is just a bit too big for me, and for people with smaller hands it is way too big.
Wildlife hatchet is fine at its smallest measurements but as you hold it near the head it becomes bigger and more difficult to hold. The profile changes to more of a point than rounded which hurts the fingers. I have just carved this off mainly from the underside of the handle but a bit off the top as well.
The Husqvarna, well IMHO this axe is designed for grunts hacking away blindly at bits of tree. I find it unbalanced and difficult to hold. Impossible to hold when choking it up. Was the reasoning for this handle that it would be employed by people who did not care for there tools and the bigger thicker handle would take longer to break.
Why is the Hans Karlson handle so large, it also looks too big for the head. The handle gets huge near the head, when choking it up.
I have been using axes most of my life, and I know we all prefer different size handles with different profiles. I would welcome feedback on handle size especially from experienced users from around the world.
My ideal handle size is about 20mm x 30/34mm, what is yours?
2.1/2 llb Elwell axe with original handle. Perfect fit for my hand
 Modified wildlife hatchet. I find that if my fingers just tickle my palm then this is a comfortable fit.
 Orignal wildlife hatchet. Too big and the bottom of the handle tapers to a point which bites into the fingers. This is a great axe for people starting out green woodwork as it is light. Choking up is a very necessary technique and this axe needs modifying for this to be safe and comfortable. It seems that this handle was designed for chopping branches and trees with no thought given to its other possible uses.
Husqvarna, very tiring and painful for my hand.

Making the handle too small is a problem as well. The fingers will press into the palm. I carved a GB carving axe handle, taking too much off. I solved this by wrapping and gluing suede leather around the handle. I rather like this very positive grip the leather gives.

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Jon

I met Jon last year at a show, unfortunatly life throws up all sorts of stuff that stops me from finding time to spend with others. This week I finally got around to meeting up with Jon in his workshop and had a great time talking about wood and tools. Jon has a blog http://riversjoinery.blogspot.co.uk if you want to see more of his work.

Jon has been researching and making riven oak furniture and has a beautiful joined chest in his workshop.

I had to take, and share a photo of his bench holdfast, just a bit of bent pipe.

Okay, they do not last forever, but it works.

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Tool tidy

I am not the neatest of people, I just get stuck into my work and the tools can pile up. The problem with putting edge tools down on the workbench with all the other edge tools is that they can get damaged. We often spend too much time sharpening and getting the tools into perfect condition, and then a nick is found in the edge because it has touched another tool.

The way I deal with this is by spending 2 minutes of my time, and a few pence worth, of usually scrap wood, making a tool tidy.

This set up is the one I use for fan bird carving. Not only does it save the edge of the tool, it is also safer and quicker. I know exactly where each tool is.

I use 2 to 3 different knives for the fan birds, each one works well for a particular task. This system is also a great space saver as well.